Lemurs & the Sea: Rainforests & Nosy Be

Today you drive east from the highlands into the rainforest zone and Andasibe. The road winds down from Tana through green hills, rice paddies and villages, gradually entering lusher, wetter country as the eastern escarpment approaches. You may stop at a reptile reserve or a private lemur reserve along the way, a fine introduction to the island's chameleons and habituated lemurs. By afternoon you reach Andasibe, where thick rainforest cloaks the hills and the air hums with birdsong and insects. You settle into your forest lodge, and this evening, if you wish, set out on a guided night walk along the forest edge in search of mouse lemurs, chameleons and other nocturnal creatures revealed by torchlight. As the day ends, the sounds of the forest surround you. Rest well, for tomorrow you go deep into the reserve in search of the singing indri.

Today is devoted to the rainforests of Andasibe-Mantadia. Setting out early with your local guide, you enter the forest to find the indri, the largest of all lemurs, and few experiences compare with standing among the trees as their eerie, soaring song rises around you; you watch family groups leap powerfully through the canopy. You explore the reserve for brown lemurs, chameleons, colourful frogs, orchids and unique birds, and if you wish venture into the wilder primary forest of Mantadia in search of the beautiful diademed sifaka and black-and-white ruffed lemur on quieter, more pristine trails. Your guide's knowledge brings the whole ecosystem vividly to life. As the day ends, you return to your lodge, exhilarated by the encounters. This evening you may take another night walk if you wish. Rest well, for tomorrow you turn south into the highlands towards Ranomafana.

Today you journey back across the highlands and turn south down the RN7 towards Antsirabe. Retracing the road towards Tana and then heading into the southern highlands, you travel through classic highland Madagascar of emerald rice terraces, red-earth villages, hills grazed by zebu and busy market towns, with stops for photographs, markets and craft villages. By late afternoon you reach Antsirabe, a genial highland town founded as a spa resort, famous for its faded colonial architecture, thermal springs and countless colourful pousse-pousse rickshaws. You settle into your hotel and perhaps take a rickshaw ride through the wide avenues or visit a craft workshop where artisans work zebu horn, gemstones and recycled metal into ingenious wares. As the day ends, you relax in the cool highland air. Rest well, for tomorrow you continue to the rainforest of Ranomafana.

Today you continue south and east towards the rainforest of Ranomafana. The road runs through more spectacular highland scenery of terraced valleys and brick villages, passing the woodcarving town of Ambositra, centre of the Zafimaniry tradition, where you can browse beautifully carved boxes and marquetry. Gradually the cultivated highlands give way to greener, wetter, forested country as you drop towards the escarpment. By late afternoon you arrive at Ranomafana, where dense rainforest cloaks steep hills and the humid air hums with insects and birdsong. You settle into your lodge near the park, perhaps soaking in the thermal springs that give the town its name. If time and energy allow, an optional night walk along the forest edge may reveal mouse lemurs, chameleons and nocturnal creatures. As the day ends, you rest amid the rainforest. Sleep well, for tomorrow you enter one of Madagascar's richest reserves.

Today is devoted to Ranomafana National Park. Setting out early with your local park guide, you follow forest trails that climb and dip through steep, dripping montane rainforest laced with streams and waterfalls. Your guide's trained eyes pick out the park's celebrated lemurs, the rare golden bamboo lemur discovered here, red-bellied lemurs, graceful Milne-Edwards' sifaka and lively brown lemurs. You also look for the dazzling chameleons for which Madagascar is famous, along with bright frogs, geckos, unique birds and the strange plants of this ancient forest. The walking can be steep and muddy but is endlessly rewarding, and your guide explains the fragile ecology and conservation work protecting it. Afterwards you may relax in the thermal springs. As the day ends, you return to your lodge, thrilled by the day's sightings. Rest well, for tomorrow you begin the journey back towards the capital and the sea.

Today is a long but scenic drive back through the highlands to the capital, so you set off early to make the most of it. The road climbs out of the rainforest and back into open highland country of terraced valleys, granite hills and brick villages, and you break the journey with stops for photographs, roadside markets, craft villages and lunch, perhaps pausing in Antsirabe or Ambositra. The changing scenery, the rice paddies mirroring the sky and the daily life of the villages make the drive a rewarding chapter rather than mere transit. By evening you reach Antananarivo and settle into your hotel, ready to swap the green highlands for the tropical coast. As the day ends, you look back on wonderful days in the rainforests. This evening, enjoy a relaxed dinner in the capital. Rest well, for tomorrow you fly to the island of Nosy Be.

Today you leave the highlands behind and fly northwest to the island of Nosy Be, Madagascar's most beautiful and beloved island escape. On arrival the air is warm and fragrant, and you are transferred to your beach hotel, trading forest trails for sweeping sands and turquoise seas. Nosy Be is a lush, green island scented by its famous ylang-ylang and vanilla plantations, ringed by beautiful beaches and blessed with glorious sunsets. The rest of the day is yours to unwind, settle into island time, swim in the warm Indian Ocean, relax on the beach with a cool drink, and savour fresh seafood as the sun sinks into the sea. After the active days in the rainforest, the change of pace is blissful. As the day ends, you toast the journey so far under the stars. Rest well, for tomorrow you explore the islands and reefs.

Today you enjoy a wonderful island-hopping boat trip among the scatter of beautiful islands around Nosy Be. You sail first to Nosy Komba, a lush volcanic island where you meet the famous tame black lemurs in a village reserve, wander craft markets selling embroidery and carvings, and relax on a pretty beach. You continue to Nosy Tanikely, a protected marine reserve ringed by vibrant coral, where you snorkel straight off a beautiful beach among turtles, rays and clouds of colourful fish in warm, clear water, and perhaps climb to the lighthouse for sweeping views. A fresh seafood lunch is served on the sand. The combination of tame lemurs, coral gardens and castaway beaches is idyllic. As the day ends, you sail back to Nosy Be under a golden sky. Rest well, for tomorrow you enjoy more of the island and its seas.

Today is yours to enjoy the sea and island as you wish. Certified divers can explore the rich reefs and dramatic drop-offs around Nosy Be, among the finest diving in the western Indian Ocean, while snorkellers glide over vibrant coral gardens. In season, this is one of the great marine-wildlife stages of the ocean, and you can sail out to watch humpback whales breaching on migration between July and September, or snorkel alongside gentle whale sharks between October and December. If you prefer, simply relax on the beach, swim in the warm sea, enjoy a spa treatment scented with island ylang-ylang, or explore the island's plantations and lively main town of Hell-Ville. As the day ends, you watch another spectacular sunset over the water. Rest well, for tomorrow brings more island pleasures.

Today you can discover a different side of Nosy Be at the Lokobe Reserve, the island's last pocket of primary lowland rainforest, reached by a traditional pirogue paddled along the coast. Landing at a fishing village, you walk with a local guide through the forest in search of black lemurs, sportive lemurs sleeping in tree hollows, chameleons, boas and colourful frogs, a lovely reminder that Nosy Be too has extraordinary wildlife. Afterwards you relax on a quiet beach and enjoy a seafood lunch. Alternatively, you may simply spend the day at leisure on the sands, swimming, reading and unwinding, or take a sunset cruise on a traditional dhow with the chance to spot dolphins. As the day ends, you savour the island's gentle rhythm and glorious light. Rest well, for tomorrow you have a final day to enjoy Nosy Be.

Today is a free day to enjoy Nosy Be entirely at your own pace, savouring the island before your journey home. You might spend the day on the beach, swimming in the warm turquoise sea and relaxing under the palms, or take a boat out to another idyllic islet such as Nosy Iranja, famous for its sandbar linking two isles, or Nosy Sakatia, the orchid island, for more snorkelling and quiet sands. You could visit an ylang-ylang or vanilla plantation to learn about the island's fragrant crops, browse the market and craft stalls, or indulge in a spa treatment. Fresh seafood, sunset cocktails and the gentle island pace make this a blissful finale. As the day ends, you take in a last glorious sunset over the sea, reflecting on your journey from rainforest to reef. Rest well, for tomorrow you begin your journey home.

After a final morning by the sea, perhaps a last swim or walk on the beach, you are transferred to Nosy Be airport for your flight back to Antananarivo and your onward international departure. You leave having experienced the very best of Madagascar, the singing indri and torchlit night walks of Andasibe, the golden bamboo lemurs and sifaka of misty Ranomafana, and then the beaches, coral reefs, tame lemurs and turquoise seas of beautiful Nosy Be. The images stay vivid long after you land, the indri leaping through the canopy, the golden bamboo lemur in the mist, and the sun sinking into the Indian Ocean off Nosy Be. Madagascar offers both wildlife and beaches found nowhere else, in perfect balance, and you depart already dreaming of a return to this extraordinary island of forest and sea.