Highlights of Samoa: Upolu & Savai'i

Today you explore Apia and the moving home of Robert Louis Stevenson. You begin in the lively capital, visiting the colourful Maketi Fou (main market), a wonderful window into Samoan life, piled with tropical produce, crafts and flowers, the pretty waterfront, the historic clock tower, and the grand mission churches. Then you head into the lush hills above the town to Vailima, the beautiful colonial home of the great author of Treasure Island, who spent his final years here, beloved by the Samoans who called him Tusitala, the teller of tales. The house is now a wonderful museum, lovingly preserved and full of his belongings and poignant story. The more energetic can climb the forest path up Mount Vaea to his tomb, with sweeping views over Apia and the sea. As the day ends, you return to your hotel, having explored the capital and its most moving literary landmark, and immersed yourself in Samoa's fascinating history and culture.

Today you journey across Upolu to its spectacular south and east coasts, taking in some of Samoa's most beautiful natural wonders. The highlight is the extraordinary To Sua Ocean Trench, a deep, sheer-sided pool of impossibly clear turquoise water sunk into the lush coastal cliffs, reached by a steep wooden ladder and connected to the sea through hidden lava tubes; swimming in its cool, clear water, surrounded by tropical greenery, is a magical and unforgettable experience. You also visit beautiful coastal spots along the way, perhaps a blowhole or coastal lava field, before arriving at the golden sands and turquoise lagoon of Lalomanu, one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Here you swim and snorkel in the calm, clear lagoon teeming with fish and coral, relax in the shade of a traditional beach fale, and soak up the beauty of the coast and the offshore islet of Nu'utele. As the day ends, you return along the scenic coast to your hotel, having experienced the natural wonders and beautiful beaches of Upolu.

Today you explore the lush, mountainous interior of Upolu, a world of waterfalls, cave pools and rainforest. You might visit the spectacular Papapapaitai Falls, plunging dramatically into a deep, forested gorge, and the beautiful Sopoaga Falls in their lush tropical garden setting, take a refreshing swim in the magical Piula Cave Pool, a crystal-clear freshwater pool in a lava cave beneath a historic church, and pass through the cross-island road with its stunning views and lush rainforest. Along the way you pass traditional villages of open, thatched fale, plantations of taro, banana and coconut, and glimpse the timeless rhythm of village life. The beauty of the interior, its waterfalls, forests and villages, is captivating and offers a lovely counterpoint to the coast. As the day ends, you return to your hotel, having explored the lush green heart of Upolu. Rest well, for tomorrow you cross to the largest and most unspoiled island in Polynesia, beautiful Savai'i.

Today you leave Upolu and cross to Savai'i, the largest and most unspoiled island in Polynesia, aboard the regular car ferry, a scenic ninety-minute crossing over the sparkling strait, with views of both islands and, perhaps, dolphins or flying fish. On arrival, you transfer along the coast to your accommodation, beginning to explore the beautiful, laid-back island as you go. Savai'i is a place of vast lava fields, spectacular blowholes, cascading waterfalls, ancient sites and traditional villages little changed for generations, where fa'a Samoa is at its most profound. This afternoon you take in the beautiful north coast, perhaps visiting the moving lava fields of Saleaula, where an early twentieth-century eruption buried villages, leaving a church and the poignant 'virgin's grave' preserved in the black lava. As the sun sets over the unspoiled coast, you settle into your accommodation, immersed in the peace and beauty of Savai'i.

A full day exploring the spectacular natural wonders of Savai'i. The highlight is the extraordinary Alofaaga blowholes near Taga, where the powerful ocean surges through lava tubes in the black volcanic coast and erupts in towering jets of spray, thundering skywards, a raw and dramatic display of the ocean's power (locals may throw in coconuts to be launched high into the air). You also explore more of the island's dramatic volcanic landscapes and vast black lava fields, swim beneath beautiful waterfalls such as the Afu Aau (Olemoe) Falls, cascading into a clear jungle pool perfect for swimming, and take in the wild, unspoiled beauty of the coast. Along the way you pass timeless traditional villages, where life continues much as it has for generations. The dramatic natural beauty and unspoiled character of Savai'i are captivating. As the day ends, you return to your accommodation, having experienced the spectacular natural wonders of the largest island in Polynesia.

A day experiencing the traditional culture, unspoiled villages and beautiful beaches of Savai'i, where fa'a Samoa is at its most profound. You might visit ancient sites such as the mysterious Pulemelei Mound, the largest ancient structure in Polynesia, explore traditional villages of open, thatched fale to learn about Samoan customs, the extended family, the chiefs and the church, and see traditional crafts such as siapo (bark cloth) and fine mat weaving. You also relax on a beautiful, uncrowded Savai'i beach, swimming and snorkelling in the clear lagoon, and soaking up the peaceful, timeless atmosphere of this unspoiled island. The warmth of the villagers and the beauty of the coast are captivating. As the sun sets over Savai'i for the last time, you enjoy a final island evening, reflecting on the natural wonders and rich culture you have experienced. Rest well, for tomorrow you cross back to Upolu for your departure.

This morning you bid a fond farewell to beautiful Savai'i and cross back to Upolu aboard the ferry, taking in a final scenic voyage over the sparkling strait. On arrival, depending on your flight time, you may have a little time to relax or pick up last souvenirs, Samoan crafts, siapo cloth or coconut oil, before being transferred to Faleolo Airport for your onward international departure. You leave having experienced the very best of Samoa, the beaches, waterfalls, culture and heritage of Upolu, and the lava fields, blowholes, waterfalls and unspoiled villages of Savai'i, all wrapped in the famous warmth of fa'a Samoa. The images stay vivid long after you land, the turquoise water of To Sua, the golden sands of Lalomanu, the thundering blowholes, the church singing and the warm smiles of the Samoan people. Samoa, the true heart of Polynesia, offers beauty, culture and warmth in abundance, and you depart already dreaming of a return to these beautiful, welcoming islands.