Northern Kenya: Samburu, Laikipia & the Rift Valley Lakes

This morning you journey north from Nairobi towards Samburu National Reserve, crossing the equator (with a stop to mark the crossing) and skirting the foothills of Mount Kenya, Africa's second-highest mountain, as the highlands give way to the rugged, semi-arid landscapes of the north. You arrive at your camp along the life-giving Ewaso Ng'iro river, fringed with doum palms, in time for lunch, then set out on an afternoon game drive. Samburu is home to the special northern species found in few other places, and you begin to seek out the Grevy's zebra, reticulated giraffe, gerenuk, Beisa oryx and Somali ostrich, along with large herds of elephant drawn to the river, and lion and leopard. The red earth, palms and exotic wildlife are captivating. As the sun sets over the river, rest well in the wild beauty of Samburu.

Today is devoted to Samburu and its remarkable wildlife and culture. You set out on a morning game drive along the Ewaso Ng'iro river and across the red-earth plains, seeking out the special northern species, the beautiful Grevy's zebra, the elegant reticulated giraffe, the long-necked gerenuk browsing on its hind legs, the Beisa oryx and the Somali ostrich, along with elephant, lion, leopard and cheetah, and a wealth of birdlife around the river. After a midday break, you visit a Samburu village, warmly and respectfully arranged, meeting families and learning about their vivid, timeless pastoral way of life, their livestock, homes and customs, and seeing their striking beadwork and dance, before an afternoon game drive. The exotic wildlife and proud culture of the north are captivating. As the sun sets over the river, rest well in beautiful Samburu.

This morning, after a final game drive in Samburu, you journey south-west onto the great Laikipia Plateau, a vast patchwork of private and community conservancies rolling towards the peaks of Mount Kenya, at the very forefront of African conservation. You arrive at your conservancy camp or lodge in time for lunch, then set out on an afternoon game drive or activity. Laikipia is home to some of the largest populations of black and white rhino in East Africa, along with lion, leopard, cheetah, the endangered wild dog, and large herds of elephant, and its low visitor numbers and conservation-first ethos make for a superb, uncrowded safari. As the sun sets over the plains, with Mount Kenya on the horizon, the sense of wild space and hope is profound. Rest well in the beautiful conservancies of Laikipia.

Today is devoted to the pioneering conservancies of Laikipia, where the private setting allows a richer, more active safari than the national parks. You might take a guided walking safari with an expert ranger, tracking wildlife on foot and learning the smaller wonders of the bush, visit a rhino sanctuary to see black and white rhino at close range (and perhaps learn about efforts to save these threatened giants), or ride across the plains on horseback or camel, an unforgettable way to move among the wildlife. After dark, an exciting night drive seeks out nocturnal creatures such as aardvark, genet, bushbaby and leopard, rarely seen elsewhere. The freedom, intimacy and inspiring conservation are wonderful. As the day ends amid the rolling plains beneath Mount Kenya, rest well in the beautiful conservancies of Laikipia.

This morning you leave the Laikipia Plateau and journey south-west into the Great Rift Valley, one of the great geological wonders of the world, to Lake Nakuru National Park, set in the Rift Valley floor and ringed by acacia forest, fever trees and escarpments. You arrive in time for an afternoon game drive in this beautiful park, a rhino sanctuary that is one of the best places in Kenya to see both black and white rhino, and a stronghold of the rare Rothschild's giraffe. The soda lake, famous for its birdlife, is at times fringed with great gatherings of pink flamingos and pelicans, and you also look for lion, leopard, buffalo and waterbuck amid the forest and escarpments. As the sun sets over the Rift Valley, the beauty is captivating. Rest well beside beautiful Lake Nakuru, deep in the Great Rift Valley of Kenya.

This morning you enjoy a final game drive at Lake Nakuru, looking once more for rhino, Rothschild's giraffe and flamingos, before continuing a short way through the Rift Valley to freshwater Lake Naivasha, a beautiful lake ringed by hills and fringed with papyrus and yellow-barked fever trees. You settle into your lakeshore lodge, then enjoy a boat safari on the lake, gliding among pods of hippos and a spectacular wealth of waterbirds, from majestic fish eagles swooping for fish to pelicans, cormorants and kingfishers. You might also visit Crescent Island, a walking sanctuary where you can stroll among giraffe, zebra and antelope in safety, with no predators. The beautiful lake, hippos and abundant birdlife are lovely. As the sun sets over Lake Naivasha, rest well on the beautiful shores of this Rift Valley lake.

After a final relaxed morning on the beautiful shores of Lake Naivasha, perhaps a last look at the hippos and birds or a walk at Crescent Island, you journey back to Nairobi through the Great Rift Valley, stopping at a viewpoint over the valley along the way, and arrive in the capital in time for your onward international departure. You leave having explored the wilder, richer north of Kenya, the special species and vivid culture of Samburu, the pioneering rhino conservancies of Laikipia with their walking safaris and night drives, and the flamingos, rhino and boat safaris of the beautiful Rift Valley lakes. The images stay vivid long after you land, the Grevy's zebra and reticulated giraffe of Samburu, the rhino of Laikipia beneath Mount Kenya, and the hippos and fish eagles of Naivasha. The wild north of Kenya offers unique wildlife and beauty in abundance, and you depart already dreaming of a return.